The Home Star Energy Retrofit Act (better known by its more exciting code “Cash for Caulkers”) is the latest stimulus attempt by the US government to get the economy growing again, much like the Cash for Clunkers and Cash for Appliances programs that have already been passed and rolled out. Under this new Cash for Caulking plan homeowners can be eligible to receive an incentive of between $1000 to $1500 back in exchange for doing work such as adding insulation, sealing up duct work, and replacing windows.

There is also a higher-end Gold Star Program where homeowners may eligible for up to a $3000 rebate if certain conditions were met for larger-scale home energy efficiency projects that improve energy efficiency by at least 20%. The work must be carried out by licensed contractors and may be audited to ensure that no fraud is taking place.

The first step is to remove the old caulk, which you can do with a razor blade, utility knife, or putty knife. This step can be pretty tedious but all it takes is determination and elbow grease, as far as scraping off all the old caulk. While much of the old caulk will pull out, you’ll inevitably need to scrape out a lot of stubborn small sections here and there.

Once the old caulk is gone, clean the old joint with either soap and water or a solution of bleach and water. After cleaning, let the joint air dry.

Silicone caulk is the best caulk to use for caulking tubs, as its the most durable and mildew-resistant. It’s also harder to work with, especially if you’re messy, so take some time at this step. If it’s your first caulking project, don’t be shy about using blue painter’s tape and masking off above and below the joint you’ll be grouting. Now you’re ready to cut the tip on your tube of caulk, which is another place many people go wrong by cutting the tip too large. You ideally want just enough caulk coming out to fill the joint as you move along the tub, so err on the side of cutting the tip too small to start with. You can also cut the tip larger if you need to, but you can’t undo it if you cut the tip too large.

Apply the caulk in a smooth steady motion, working your way around the tub. Don’t worry about completely filling the gap of the joint on your first pass, as you’ll be smoothing the caulk later and many gaps will be filled then. Whatever you do, don’t go back and try to fill in an area that doesn’t have enough caulk, as this is guaranteed to make a mess. Do one wall of the tub at a time, instead of trying to trying to caulk the entire perimeter of the tub at one time.

After it’s applied, you’ll need to smooth it out, using either your fingertip, an old spoon, or a specialized caulk spreading tool. Smooth the caulk so that it’s a regular smooth, concave seam. Easier said then done, but a little practice is all you need. Be sure to have a bucket of water and damp rags on hands, as you’ll be wiping your hands often, and may need to wipe off filmy grout haze from the tub from time to time as you’re working.

As far as the pros of silicone caulking, it’s best used on non-porous surfaces such as tile, glass, and metal surfaces. It’s very durable, extremely adhesive, remains flexible over time, and, most importantly, is very impervious to water, which is why it’s commonly used in tubs and showers and other areas regularly exposed to water. Silicone caulk is mildew resistant and won’t yellow over time.

On the con side, silicone caulk is silicone-based, so unlike acrylic/latex caulks it won’t clean up with just water, so you’ll need rubbing alcohol for cleanup (both you and your tools). It’s a good deal more expensive than other caulks and most types of silicone caulk cannot be painted (although some newer varieties are paintable). Silicone caulk also releases ammonia as it cures so you’ll need good ventilation when working with it as it smells very strongly. It’s typically available only in colors of clear and white, so your color choices are limited.

President Obama proposed a new program December 15th that would reimburse homeowners for energy-efficient appliances and insulation, part of a broader plan to stimulate the economy.

The administration didn’t provide immediate details, but said it would work with Congress on crafting legislation. Steve Nadel, director at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, who’s helping write the bill, said a homeowner could receive up to $12,000 in rebates.

The proposal is part of the President’s larger spending plan, which also includes money for small businesses, renewable energy manufacturing, and infrastructure.

We know energy efficiency “creates jobs, saves money for families, and reduces the pollution that threatens our environment,” Obama said. “With additional resources, in areas like advanced manufacturing of wind turbines and solar panels, for instance, we can help turn good ideas into good private-sector jobs.”

The program contains two parts: money for homeowners for efficiency projects, and money for companies in the renewable energy and efficiency space.

The plan will likely create a new program where private contractors conduct home energy audits, buy the necessary gear and install it, according to a staffer on the Senate Energy Committee and Nadel at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy.

Big-ticket items like air conditioners, heating systems, washing machines, refrigerators, windows and insulation would likely be covered, Nadel said.

Consumers might be eligible for a 50% rebate on both the price of the equipment and the installation, up to $12,000, said Nadel. So far, there is no income restriction on who is eligible. That would mean a household could spend as much as $24,000 on upgrades and get half back.

Homes that take full advantage of the program could see their energy bills drop as much as 20%, he said. The program is expected to cost in the $10 billion range.

It’s not clear how the home efficiency plan would be administered – the government may issue rebates to consumers directly, homeowners might get a tax credit, or the program could be run via state agencies.